Sewing Basics: Thread
Thread: Quality and Freshness Matter
Thread is one of those items where sewists may try to save a little money. However, cheap or old thread can end up costing you more in frustration, fabric, and repairs. Here's what to keep an eye on when selecting thread for your sewing project.
Quality
When purchasing thread, look for high quality spools with trusted name brands. Top brands include Sulky, Gutermann, Aurifil, and Coats & Clark. These brands have all been around for quite some time and have been proven in quality, colorfastness, and shedding. Low quality thread can be uneven in thickness or be loosely spun onto the spool. In addition, it can also cause excess fiber shedding that will build up inside your machine, bobbin cassette, tension discs, and feed dogs. A simple test, like the one described in the next category below, can also be a great way to test unknown or less expensive thread for quality.
Age
Unfortunately, all thread won't last. We all have our favorite colors, weight, and blend of threads. After a while however, thread breaks down and loses its durability. This typically happens over years and usually isn't an issue to immediately worry about. If you happen to have old thread, particularly cotton, it may have begun to age and become brittle or rough. A good way to test if an old spool of thread is viable is to take a few inches of it and hold it between your hands and giving it a firm but gentle tug. If the thread breaks easily, its time to replace it.
Weight
Depending on your sewing project, you may find that you want or need to use specific weights, or thickness, of thread. Below are simple descriptions of different weights of thread and a quick guide to their usage. Before using a new or unfamiliar weight of thread read up on the type of fabric you're using and the recommended thread weight. Different fabrics require different weights of thread to keep from pulling the woven fibers of your material. Below is a general, but not concise description and suggested uses for various thread weights.
| Thread type & weight | Usage and recommended fabric type |
|---|---|
| Fine threads (60wt-50wt) | Best for delicate sewing, detailed work, and low bulk seams. Common in machine embroidery, heirloom sewing, and fine quilting. Works well on lightweight fabrics like silk, chiffon, voile, lawn, and fine cottons where you want smooth and subtle stitches. |
| General purpose thread (40wt) | This is the everyday standard for most sewing projects. It is used for garment construction, quilting, and home décor. It works well on medium weight fabrics like quilting cotton, linen, chambray, and light to medium twills. It is strong and versatile without being too heavy or too fine. |
| Heavy threads (30wt) | Used when you want stitches to show more, such as decorative stitching, quilting accents, and some topstitching. Best on medium to heavier fabrics like denim, canvas, heavier cottons, and upholstery-weight fabrics and adds visual definition and strength. |
| Very heavy threads (12wt) | Mainly for bold decorative stitching, hand embroidery styles like sashiko and statement quilting. It works best on heavier fabrics such as denim, canvas, and thick quilting cotton. It is not typically used for construction seams due to bulkiness. |
| Topstitching & Machine Embroidery thread | Designed specifically for visible seam finishing and decorative stitching along edges, pockets, and hems. It is usually heavier than standard all-purpose thread but smoother than very heavy decorative threads. Best on medium to heavy fabrics like denim, twill, canvas, and structured garments where strong, visible seams are desired. |
Material & Blends
Many threads now come in a variety of blends as well as traditional materials. While 100% cotton thread is usually a good choice for most any project, various blends of thread can be used for durability, decoration, and construction of your sewing project. Below is another handy table explaining the different types of thread and their usage.
| Thread type | Key characteristics | Best uses |
|---|---|---|
| Cotton | Natural fiber, matte finish, soft with little stretch | Quilting, cotton and linen fabrics, traditional sewing where a natural look is preferred |
| Polyester | Strong, durable, slightly stretchy, resistant to shrinking and fading | Everyday garment sewing, home décor, and general use on both natural and synthetic fabrics |
| Rayon | Smooth, shiny, decorative finish, less strong | Machine embroidery and decorative stitching where appearance matters more than strength |
| Silk | Fine, very smooth, strong for its size, expensive | Luxury garments, delicate fabrics, and fine tailoring where subtle stitches are needed |
| Blends (cotton/polyester) | Combines softness of cotton with strength of polyester | General sewing and quilting where a balance of durability and natural appearance is desired |
There is also transparent nylon thread, fusible thread, and dissolvable thread. Each one can be used in various ways to complete and customize a project. Transparent nylon is useful to hide stitches, fusible thread will bond the material when ironed over, and dissolvable thread will disappear in the wash.
Always double-check your machine's recommended thread types and weight in your user manual and don't be afraid to safely experiment with different blends and weights on various fabrics. Need help picking out the right thread for your next project? Visit us in-store or shop online with us to find exactly what you need!